Chemical Peel

Mechanism of Action

Acids break the desmosomal bonds between keratinocytes, allowing dead skin cells to shed evenly while inducing a controlled injury that stimulates epidermal regeneration and neocollagenesis in the superficial dermis. The choice of acid determines its clinical target: salicylic acid (BHA) is lipid-soluble, penetrating deep into the pilosebaceous unit—ideal for acne-prone, oily skin; glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids (AHAs) are water-soluble, brightening and smoothing the skin surface—ideal for dullness, superficial hyperpigmentation, and dry skin; TCA (trichloroacetic acid) penetrates deeper depending on its concentration—effective for stubborn pigmentation, uneven texture, and superficial scars; retinol peels and Jessner's solution are combination formulations targeting multiple concerns simultaneously.

Peel Depths: Superficial, Medium, and Deep

Superficial peels only affect the epidermis: causing mild erythema and fine flaking for a few days, suitable for regular maintenance. Medium-depth peels reach the papillary dermis: causing redness, temporary skin darkening, and sheet-like peeling over 5–7 days; they yield more pronounced improvements in pigmentation and skin texture, requiring a physician's administration and strict photoprotection. Deep peels (phenol) are rarely used on Asian skin due to the high risk of post-inflammatory hyper- or hypopigmentation. For Vietnamese skin, dermatologists favor a multi-session regimen of superficial to medium-depth peels over a single deep peel.

Indications

Non-inflammatory and mild inflammatory acne, congested closed comedones, oily skin with clogged pores; post-inflammatory erythema/hyperpigmentation (PIH); dull, uneven skin tone; enlarged pores; adjunctive support for melasma management (mild peels combined with topical medications); and skin priming prior to certain laser treatment protocols.

Potential Risks & Considerations

Erythema, stinging, and desquamation; post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (a primary risk in darker skin phototypes, exacerbated by inadequate sun protection); patchy hypopigmentation (associated with deep peels); transient acne purging; reactivation of herpes simplex virus; scarring (extremely rare, usually resulting from excessive peel depth or premature picking of peeling skin); and infection (rare). Using inappropriate acid concentrations or performing at-home peels with high-strength acids are the leading causes of chemical burns and persistent hyperpigmentation.

The BonBoz Approach

Dermatologists perform a comprehensive skin analysis to determine the precise acid type and depth tailored to your skin concerns and sensitivity level, priming the skin with sun protection and gentle active ingredients if indicated. Peels are performed by dermatologists or specially trained clinical nurses under medical supervision, with precise control of application time and neutralization. Patients receive strict post-peel aftercare and photoprotection instructions, typically following a customized treatment plan of 4–6 sessions depending on individual aesthetic goals.