Acne Treatment

Chemical Peel

A chemical peel is a procedure in which an acid solution (salicylic, glycolic, lactic, mandelic, low-concentration TCA, or a combination) is applied to the skin for a controlled period to exfoliate dead skin cells, unclog pores, and stimulate cellular renewal. It is indicated for acne, congestion, post-acne hyperpigmentation, dull complexion, and enlarged pores.

Compiled from BonBoz Clinic clinical documentation — currently in medical review

Mechanism of Action

Acids break the desmosomal bonds between keratinocytes, allowing dead skin cells to shed evenly while inducing a controlled injury that stimulates epidermal regeneration and neocollagenesis in the superficial dermis. The choice of acid determines its clinical target: salicylic acid (BHA) is lipid-soluble, penetrating deep into the pilosebaceous unit—ideal for acne-prone, oily skin; glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids (AHAs) are water-soluble, brightening and smoothing the skin surface—ideal for dullness, superficial hyperpigmentation, and dry skin; TCA (trichloroacetic acid) penetrates deeper depending on its concentration—effective for stubborn pigmentation, uneven texture, and superficial scars; retinol peels and Jessner's solution are combination formulations targeting multiple concerns simultaneously.

Peel Depths: Superficial, Medium, and Deep

Superficial peels only affect the epidermis: causing mild erythema and fine flaking for a few days, suitable for regular maintenance. Medium-depth peels reach the papillary dermis: causing redness, temporary skin darkening, and sheet-like peeling over 5–7 days; they yield more pronounced improvements in pigmentation and skin texture, requiring a physician's administration and strict photoprotection. Deep peels (phenol) are rarely used on Asian skin due to the high risk of post-inflammatory hyper- or hypopigmentation. For Vietnamese skin, dermatologists favor a multi-session regimen of superficial to medium-depth peels over a single deep peel.

Indications

Non-inflammatory and mild inflammatory acne, congested closed comedones, oily skin with clogged pores; post-inflammatory erythema/hyperpigmentation (PIH); dull, uneven skin tone; enlarged pores; adjunctive support for melasma management (mild peels combined with topical medications); and skin priming prior to certain laser treatment protocols.

Potential Risks & Considerations

Erythema, stinging, and desquamation; post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (a primary risk in darker skin phototypes, exacerbated by inadequate sun protection); patchy hypopigmentation (associated with deep peels); transient acne purging; reactivation of herpes simplex virus; scarring (extremely rare, usually resulting from excessive peel depth or premature picking of peeling skin); and infection (rare). Using inappropriate acid concentrations or performing at-home peels with high-strength acids are the leading causes of chemical burns and persistent hyperpigmentation.

The BonBoz Approach

Dermatologists perform a comprehensive skin analysis to determine the precise acid type and depth tailored to your skin concerns and sensitivity level, priming the skin with sun protection and gentle active ingredients if indicated. Peels are performed by dermatologists or specially trained clinical nurses under medical supervision, with precise control of application time and neutralization. Patients receive strict post-peel aftercare and photoprotection instructions, typically following a customized treatment plan of 4–6 sessions depending on individual aesthetic goals.

Technique variants

1

Superficial Peel (BHA, Low-Concentration AHA)

Acts on the epidermis with light, fine peeling for 2–3 days; ideal for regular maintenance of acne, oiliness, and dull skin.

2

Medium-Depth Peel (TCA 15–25%, Combination)

Penetrates to the papillary dermis with sheet peeling for 5–7 days; targets hyperpigmentation and uneven texture; requires a physician's supervision and strict sun protection.

When should you see a doctor?

  • Active open wounds, severe peeling, or localized infection.
  • A history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) without prior skin priming.
  • Inability to strictly avoid sun exposure following the chemical peel.
  • Current use of high-dose retinoids or having recently undergone other procedures on the same treatment area.

How is it performed?

The skin is thoroughly cleansed and degreased, with protective barriers applied to the corners of the eyes, nose, and mouth. The doctor then applies the acid solution in even layers at the selected concentration while closely monitoring the skin’s response (erythema, whitening/frosting with TCA) and contact time. Once the desired clinical endpoint is reached, the solution is neutralized or rinsed off, followed by the application of soothing products and sunscreen. Duration: 20–40 minutes.

Before the procedure

Skin analysis and sensitivity testing if needed; prep the skin for 1–2 weeks with sunscreen, moisturizers, and mild active ingredients if indicated; discontinue retinoids 3–5 days prior; avoid exfoliating and waxing for 1 week; disclose any history of herpes, keloids, or isotretinoin use.

After the procedure

Do not touch or pick at peeling skin; apply a gentle moisturizer, use broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30–50, and avoid direct sun exposure for 1–2 weeks; avoid strong active ingredients and do not exfoliate until the skin has fully healed; superficial peels can be repeated every 2–4 weeks, and medium-depth peels every 4–8 weeks; recommended treatment course is 4–6 sessions.

Possible risks — your doctor explains them before treatment

  • Redness, stinging, peeling
  • Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (especially without sun protection)
  • Localized hypopigmentation (deep peels)
  • Temporary breakouts
  • Herpes reactivation
  • Scarring (very rare), infection (rare)

Who should NOT have this?

  • Current use of oral isotretinoin or discontinuation within the past 6 months (for medium to deep peels)
  • Pregnancy (contraindicated for certain acids)
  • Active skin inflammation, eczema, active herpes simplex infection, or open wounds
  • History of keloid scarring
  • Inability to strictly avoid sun exposure post-peel
  • Expectation to completely eliminate deep pitted scars or deep melasma solely with chemical peels

How BonBoz uses it

Subcision

Subcision utilizes a specialized needle inserted under the skin to sever the fibrous bands pulling the scar base downward. This is a core step for rolling scars and is often combined with lasers or microneedling to smooth out the skin surface afterward.

Learn about this method →

TCA CROSS

TCA CROSS delivers high-concentration acid precisely into the base of each scar to stimulate tissue regeneration from the inside out. This technique is specifically used for ice pick scars and deep boxcar scars that surface lasers cannot reach.

Learn about this method →

Microneedling

Microneedling creates thousands of micro-injuries to trigger the skin's natural collagen production. It is minimally invasive with a fast recovery time, making it suitable for shallow pitted scars and uneven skin texture. For deeper scars, microneedling alone is often insufficient and requires combination therapy.

Learn about this method →

Acne Treatment

Service page: A specialist physician conducts an examination, recommends a suitable treatment plan, and provides transparent pricing before you make a decision.

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Want a cost range for your own case?

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Cost guidance

The cost depends on the type and concentration of acid suitable for your skin, the number of sessions in the treatment plan, and whether it is combined with comedone extraction or topical medications.

The final price follows the doctor’s recommendation after an in-person exam. A confirmed quote has no hidden extras.

Inside the BonBoz clinic

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Frequently asked questions

Does chemical peeling thin the skin?

When performed at the correct concentration, chemical peels remove dead skin cells and stimulate skin regeneration, which actually thickens the dermal layer over time. Peeling causes damage only when done too frequently or at excessively high concentrations.

How long after a peel will the skin stop being red and start peeling?

With superficial peels, redness lasts a few hours, followed by fine flaking for 2–3 days. With medium-depth peels, the skin may darken and peel in patches for 5–7 days, with mild redness persisting for 1–2 weeks. The rate of peeling varies depending on individual skin physiology.

Can chemical peels treat pitted/atrophic acne scars?

Superficial to medium peels improve overall skin texture and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation; deep pitted scars require TCA CROSS, CO2 laser, or microneedling RF.

How many sessions are needed to see results?

Acne and oil control improve after 2–3 sessions; dark spots and skin radiance noticeably improve after 4–6 sessions, with periodic maintenance recommended.

Can chemical peeling cause hyperpigmentation?

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur, especially in darker skin tones or without adequate sun protection. The physician will select the appropriate peel depth and properly prepare the skin to minimize this risk.

Is it safe to DIY chemical peels at home with acids purchased online?

High-concentration acids are not recommended for home use, as many cases of chemical burns and hyperpigmentation result from self-peeling. Low-concentration acids in daily skincare products are safe to use.

Can chemical peels be combined with laser treatments or acne extractions?

Acne extractions can be performed right before a chemical peel in the same session. Lasers are typically spaced 2–4 weeks apart, depending on the specific modality.

Can sensitive skin undergo chemical peels?

Yes, using gentle acids (such as mandelic or lactic acid) at low concentrations once the skin barrier is stabilized. The physician will perform a patch test beforehand.

Is a back peel different from a facial peel?

Because the skin on the back is thicker, it can tolerate higher concentrations and peels more slowly. Due to the larger surface area, the cost per session is also different.

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