Mechanism
Acids break the bonds between keratinocytes, allowing the dead skin cells to shed evenly while causing controlled damage that stimulates epidermal regeneration and increases collagen in the superficial dermis. The type of acid determines the effect: salicylic (BHA) is oil-soluble, penetrating the hair follicles — suitable for acne-prone and oily skin; glycolic, lactic, mandelic (AHA) are water-soluble, brightening and smoothing the surface — suitable for dull, superficial pigmentation, and dry skin; TCA penetrates deeper depending on the concentration — suitable for pigmentation, texture, and superficial scars; retinol peel, Jessner are combinations for dual purposes.
Depth: superficial, medium, deep
Superficial peels only affect the epidermis: mild redness, fine peeling for a few days, performed periodically. Medium peels reach the superficial dermis: redness, darkening, then peeling in patches for 5–7 days, more effective for pigmentation and texture, requiring a doctor’s supervision and strict sun protection. Deep peels (phenol) are rarely used on Asian skin due to the risk of hyperpigmentation and hypopigmentation. For Vietnamese skin, doctors prefer multiple superficial to medium sessions rather than one deep session.
Indications
Non-inflammatory and mild inflammatory acne, thick closed comedones, clogged oily skin; post-acne pigmentation; dull, uneven skin tone; enlarged pores; support for melasma treatment (light peels combined with medication); skin preparation before laser treatments in certain protocols.
Risks to be aware of
Redness, stinging, skin peeling; post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (the main risk in darker skin, increased without sun protection); localized hypopigmentation (deep peels); temporary acne flare-ups; activation of herpes; scarring (very rare, when peeling too deeply or removing immature skin); infection (rare). Incorrect concentration of peels or at-home use of strong acids is a common cause of chemical burns and pigmentation.
At BonBoz
Dermatologists assess the skin, determining the type and depth of the peel based on the issues and skin sensitivity, preparing the skin beforehand with sun protection and gentle actives if necessary. Peels are performed by doctors or trained nurses under supervision, monitoring application time and neutralization accurately; post-peel care and strict sun protection instructions are provided; a course of 4–6 sessions depending on the goals.